Gorgeous White Pocket, Ariz.

Gorgeous White Pocket, Ariz. - If You Get A Chance To Go, Do It! - By Margie Anderson

John and I talked about doing a trip to White Pocket, but pretty much every site says you shouldn't go alone because the deep loose sandy road makes it easy for even a 4x4 to get stuck. Then one day I mentioned it to our granddaughter Trinity, and she told us that she and David always wanted to go there too, so could they come with us. Heck yes!

Then Trin and I mentioned our plans in front of our granddaughter Emily and her husband Leo, and they instantly told us they wanted to go too. I regretfully told them they had to have a 4 wheel drive vehicle, but they had a solution to that – they'd rent a Jeep! So we all decided on a weekend that would work for all of us and started solidifying the plans.

Where To Stay

I made reservations for a Friday and Saturday night at Marble Canyon Lodge because we had stayed there before when the girls were younger and we took an epic trip to Page and the North Rim. The Lodge has rooms AND cottages, so I chose us a two-bedroom cottage that sleeps 6. They even let you bring your dog with you for an extra $39. They have renovated the cottages since last time we were there and they are gorgeous and modern – with A/C and a private porch with a firepit and comfy chairs. Their website. Their phone number is 1-800-726-1789, or you can email them at info@marblecanyonlodge.com.

The lodge also has a restaurant, a coffee bar, and a gift shop. The cottages have full kitchens with plenty of dishes, pots and pans, utensils, and silverware. All the comforts of home. You could also stay in Page, and there is another lodge down the road from Marble Canyon Lodge called Cliff Dwellers Lodge.

The Drive To Marble Canyon

Marble Canyon is about a five hour drive from Phoenix. You take I-17 to Flagstaff, then I-40 east to 89 and head north. Around 25 miles or so south of Page, 89 divides north of Bitter Spring. Bear left onto 89A to get to Marble Canyon. We all went up Friday afternoon so we could get a very early start on Saturday.

We took our trip on the third weekend in March, and the week before that there were bad snowstorms in the Flagstaff area with accidents and freeway closures, so weather is definitely something you need to watch and plan for. If our trip had been planned a week earlier I doubt any of us would have risked it. Even though White Pocket at its highest is only a little over 6000 feet in elevation, your way could be blocked by higher points. The area around there, north of the Grand Canyon, isn't as full of highways as the rest of the state.

The Drive From Marble Canyon To White Pocket

We left the lodge at 4:00 am even though it's only 49 miles to White Pocket from Marble Canyon Lodge. David, Trinity's husband, wanted to be there at sunrise and it's a rough 4x4 trail. We took 89A west to House Rock Road and went north to road 1017. Once you get off the paved road the going gets rough. The first part of the off-road drive was washboard road that would shake your teeth loose if you tried to go fast, and after that came the sand.

The sand this road is very deep and loose in some places. We didn't air down our tires, but we were prepared to if need be. With a three-vehicles caravan we just took it easy. Recent rains had made the sand firmer. We reached the trailhead at White Pocket at about 6:00, just as it was getting light.

Hiking White Pocket

There aren't really trails at White Pocket because the terrain is all solid rock and sand. When we started off toward the white mountain from the parking lot the sun was just lighting up the tops of the rocks and it was gorgeous. We had all griped a bit about that long hard drive in the dark, but that light immediately convinced all of us that sunrise the time to be there!

We spent several hours climbing and walking on the rocks, slots, and hills at White Pocket and the place is absolutely stunning. It seems like every step gives you a new, beautiful perspective. Cameras and phones were clicking like mad and all of us were in awe of the incredible rock formations and striations. Seriously, you have to see it to believe it.

When you first leave the parking lot you can see white rock hills ahead, and as you reach them the ground beneath you suddenly turns to rock full of layers and layers of orange, red, white, and yellow, twisting and curving and rising and falling. There are perfectly round holes, small slot canyons, and incredible views – you can see for miles from the tops of the hills. Absolutely astonishing.

We tried to hike every inch of White Pocket from every angle, and we were rewarded with sights that delighted us at every turn. White Pocket isn't a big place, but it packs more beauty and awe into a small space than any other place I've ever been to. John and I were so blessed to be able to share this adventure with our granddaughters!

If You Go -

This trip requires a 4x4. There are multiple signs along the way warning you about that. If you want to be there at daybreak but driving in the dark worries you, we did see people camping at the trailhead so it appears that you can drive up in the evening and stay overnight so you're already there at dawn.

On our way out the road was getting fairly busy, mostly with vehicles for guided tours of White Pocket, so that's an option if you don't want to 4-wheel it on your own. But seeing all that traffic headed in made us glad we'd opted for a super early start, since we virtually had the whole place to ourselves all morning.

Things to bring:

• Air compressor in case you have to air down your tires

• A way to get out of sand if you're stuck – they sell traction devices for this. John says you can use your floor mats too, in a pinch.

• Water, of course.

• First aid kit.

• Hiking boots: you'll be clambering around in sand and on rough rocks. There are some scary drop-offs, so keep your dog leashed.

• Camera

• Screenshots of map or paper map – there is no dependable cell service out there. I brought along the National Geographic Trails Illustrated map of Paria Canyon and Kanab.

• Hat, sunscreen, long sleeves.

• Walking stick. I brought one because I get a little vertigo now and then. The kids never left my side, but I was still happy to have my stick!

• Satellite phone. I brought my ham radio, but even trying to reach a repeater out there was impossible for me. It really is remote. As always, I had our Garmin In Reach Mini in case we got into trouble. Also, newer iPhones can send satellite messages. I tested it out once with Emily and it worked!

Directions To White Pocket:

Take highway 89A west from Marble Canyon to House Rock Valley Road.

Go north on House Rock Valley Road for a little over 9-1/4 miles to road 1017.

Follow 1017 east for about 6-1/4 miles to road 1087.

When the road splits, bear left onto 1086.

Arrive at the trailhead.

More Things To Do In The Area

When we took the girls to the North Rim one summer we stayed in Page for a couple of nights and visited several spots on Lake Powell, as well as taking a tour of the dam. Then of course on the way to Marble Canyon we stopped and did the hike to Horseshoe Bend which was awesome. Be aware that all of these places are desert and it gets really hot in the summer, so make sure you dress properly and take lots of water.

At Marble Canyon you're right at the base of the Vermillion Cliffs so the views are spectacular. You cross the Grand Canyon at Navajo Bridge just before reaching Marble Canyon, and there are places to park and a foot bridge so you can walk out over the beginning of the Grand Canyon and photograph the Colorado River. There is an interpretive area there as well.

Just past the bridge is the turn off to Lee's Ferry where you can walk right down to the Colorado River. Lee's Ferry is famous for trout fishing in the cold water below Glen Canyon Dam. There is a campground there and a small historical area as well, with a trail that goes along the river toward the dam.

You can also visit an old homestead there by Lee's Ferry with many of the original buildings and a beautiful orchard. If you keep walking down the dirt road you'll reach the Paria River. The first time we were there was in summer and the girls were delighted to wade in the river. We walked quite a ways upriver and the cliffs along it are also beautiful.

We also went to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon when we went there with the girls before, but that road is closed for winter until May 14. But the views of the Canyon from the North and East rims is to die for – in my opinion SO much better than the south rim. You can read about that North Rim Trip here in the August 1, 2018 issue of Western Outdoor Times.

If you get a chance to visit this part of Arizona north of the Grand Canyon, do it! It's gorgeous!

For more information on White Pocket, AZ visit U.S. Department Of Interior, Bureau Of Land Management.